Climate change, over tourism create water woes in Ladakh

"Ladakh has changed from what it used to be," says Tsewang Kunzes, a sixty-eight-year-old resident of India’s newly formed Union Territory. Reflecting on her childhood, she describes how her hometown has transformed from a water-surplus mountainous region to a place facing a water crisis. "Back then, we took water supply for granted. Ladakh was never short of water, considering the limited needs of a small population. That is now changing," she describes.

Climate change, tourism, and modern water usage practices are causing chaos in Ladakh, a high-altitude desert with an average elevation of over 11,000 feet. Temperatures range from minus 35 degrees Celsius in winter to plus 35 in summer. With annual precipitation of less than four inches, primarily as snowfall, the region is facing significant challenges.

As population growth and tourism surge in Ladakh, the water demand has also increased. The scarcity of water has placed immense pressure on the region's limited resources. Modern practices like flushing toilets increase the strain on water availability, highlighting the urgent need for innovative solutions.

Tourism in Ladakh opened up in 1974, with a modest influx of 527 tourists, out of which only 27 were Indian. Over the years, visitor numbers saw a steady increase, reaching 55,685 Indian tourists in 2010, as reported by the district's tourism department. By 2011, the figures skyrocketed to 1.42 lakh people. Fast forward to 2023, and the number surged to 525,374, according to data from the district administration of Leh.

In Ladakh, a region known for its cold desert conditions, there's a noticeable change happening. The usual cold weather is becoming warmer and drier, affecting communities across the Himalayan landscape. From Zanskar to Nubra Valley, villages are facing a growing water crisis, which is different from what they're used to.

Ladakh's villages, with their sparse population, have seen changes in weather patterns that have already caused floods, landslides, and droughts, altering people's lives. For instance, Phyang village, located nine miles from Leh, Ladakh's capital, has experienced these effects.

Water scarcity worsens from June to August

Speaking with Ground Report about water scarcity from June to August, Tsewang Kunzes reflects on her childhood memories, saying, "I recall a time when fields were lush with thriving crops and livestock flourished under the care of local traditional systems. However, in my current reality, I witness the gradual disintegration of these agricultural and traditional practices."

She further elaborates, "The challenges escalate during the June to August period due to reduced water availability in the region." This emphasises the seasonal difficulties exacerbated by the scarcity of water.

Nordan Otzer, the director of the Ladakh Ecological Development and Environmental Group (LEDEG), reflected on the paramount importance of water in Ladakh. "Ladakhis have a deep-rooted understanding of water scarcity, considering it not just a resource but something sacred," he noted. "Our studies reveal that the average Ladakhi uses only about 20 litres of water per day, a stark contrast to the 75 litres consumed by tourists."

Highlighting a pressing concern, Otzer warned, "The glacier crucial for Leh's water supply is projected to vanish entirely within the next five to six years." This impending crisis underscores the urgent need for robust water conservation efforts in the region.

Nawang Norbu, another local resident, looks back fondly on growing up in Prey village, nestled about 20 km from Leh among peaceful landscapes. Like Kunzes, he enjoys remembering his childhood but feels sad to see important traditions fading away.

Now working for daily wages in busy Leh, Norbu often misses the peace and simplicity of his village. "Every day away from Phyang feels like I'm losing a part of who I am," he says. "The mountains call to me, and I feel a strong pull to go back home." I have to live in Leh because it offers economic opportunity, he explains.

Glacier retreat, snow decline threaten agriculture

According to a 2023 study, the Parachik glacier in Ladakh has been retreating at a faster rate, increasing from 2 metres per year between 1971 and 1999 to 20 metres per year between 2015 and 2021. In Ladakh's arid desert landscape, farmers traditionally rely on water sourced from melting snow and glaciers.

However, recent years have seen a significant decline in winter snowfall, posing a challenge to agriculture. To address this problem ice stupas were introduced in the villages.

Innovative Solutions Amidst Water Crisis

The Ice Stupa project, started by Sonam Wangchuk, a mechanical engineer, and his team of volunteers, constructs a massive vertical ice structure in Phyang. Its goal is to tackle water scarcity, but it has unintentionally worsened the issue. The idea is to build towering ice structures that gather water in winter to aid agriculture in spring. However, reduced snowfall and shrinking natural glaciers have depleted the freshwater sources, exacerbating the challenges for locals.

"An artificial glacier is a simple, cost-effective, and unique technique for harnessing and conserving water in the cold and high-altitude regions, which is the best solution for the water crisis in the region," explains Chewang Norphel, a retired civil engineer working with Leh Nutrition Project (LNP). Also known as IceMan, Norphel was the one who first conceived and implemented an artificial glacier in Ladakh.

Norphel told Ground Report, "The artificial glacier (Ice stupa) is built at a higher elevation — generally at more than 4300m above mean sea level — but at a walking distance from the village it is proposed to serve. Stone embankments built at regular intervals impede the flow of water, forming shallow pools. The pools start freezing in late November. Ice accumulates on the mountain slope for four months, forming artificial glaciers. The size of the glacier depends on the temperature, topography, and velocity of water in the stream.

Among the 113 villages in Leh district, 32 are dealing with water scarcity. According to Norphel, artificial glaciers are the most promising solution for this mountainous region and can be implemented in villages facing water shortages.

Norphel, a recipient of the Padmashree award, emphasised the potential of artificial glaciers to be replicated across Ladakh and similar regions with comparable geographical and climatic conditions. He highlighted their success, especially in villages above 14,000 feet altitude with temperatures around -10 degrees Celsius, where water scarcity for irrigation is severe.

"Winters have changed here; we receive less snowfall now," he noted. "Despite this, we manage to sustain ourselves with available water sources. Since agricultural activities are minimal during winter, we focus on preserving water through artificial glaciers. This stored water serves both agricultural and drinking purposes effectively. By storing water in its frozen state, we ensure its longevity."

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