Razdan top Gurez: The tougher and more spectacular views

On the way to Gurez valley, there are many beautiful sights to see, but Razdan Top or Razdan Pass, a mountain pass at 3,300 meters (11,672 feet) that serves as the gateway to one of India's most secluded Gurez valleys. Plans for a tunnel project could reshape the region's destiny.

The journey to Razdan Pass is an adventure, showcasing the beauty and challenges of the Himalayan landscape. From Bandipora, travellers embark on an uphill trek through coniferous forests and meadows. As the altitude increases, the scenery transforms, offering breathtaking vistas.

"It feels like walking in the clouds," says Mohammed Arif, a local guide who often travels this route. "The ascent to Razdan Top is challenging but beautiful, with steep climbs and descents. The views make it worth it."

The Gurez-Bandipora Highway is a marvel of engineering, mostly paved with reinforced concrete sections. It snakes up the mountainside, offering hair-raising views of deep gorges and cliffs. The 58.8-kilometre stretch from Kazalwan to Manrigam is a thrilling ride, with each turn revealing new panoramas of the peaks.

A pass of many names

Known as Tragbal Pass, Razdan Top, and Rajdhan Pass, this mountain crossing has a long history. Once part of the ancient Silk Road, it connected Kashmir to Central Asia, facilitating trade and cultural exchange. Today, it remains important for the remote communities of the Gurez Valley.

The pass is strategically important, connecting far-flung areas near the Line of Control (LoC) with the district headquarters of Bandipora in North Kashmir. This link ensures isolated communities stay connected to the outside world – at least part of the year.

Razdan Pass offers impressive views in all of Kashmir. On clear days, the majestic Mount Harmukh dominates the horizon. This peak, considered sacred by Hindus, was the vantage point from which the world's second-highest peak, K2, was first discovered in 1856.

Priya Sharma, a travel photographer, describes getting lost in the clouds at Razdan Pass, with the sun shining from above, creating a dance on the mountain peaks. "The interplay of light, clouds, and rugged terrain creates a changing tableau that's a dream for any artist or nature lover."

The isolation of Razdan Pass has been both a blessing and a challenge for the Gurez Valley. Cut off from the world for nearly half the year due to heavy snowfall, the valley has preserved its environmental and cultural treasures in a way few other places have.

The Dard-Shina people, the main inhabitants of Gurez, have preserved their culture for centuries. However, this isolation has its drawbacks. The valley lacks modern amenities. Electricity is available for only a few hours, powered by generators. Wi-Fi and internet are foreign concepts to many residents who have never left the valley.

To improve connectivity and quality of life for Gurez's residents, the Border Roads Organisation (BRO) has proposed an ambitious project: the Razdan Pass Tunnel. This 18-kilometer tunnel would provide year-round access to Gurez by bypassing the most challenging sections of the current road.

"The Razdan Pass Tunnel project is about more than infrastructure; it's about opening up new possibilities for the people of Gurez," states Colonel Vijay Kumar, a spokesperson for the BRO. "It will ensure reliable access to healthcare, education, and economic opportunities that have been limited due to the region's isolation."

The project, in planning for over a decade, has gained momentum. After feasibility studies and advanced preliminary design work, the detailed project report was submitted to the Central Government in 2016. Despite delays due to finances, the project received preliminary approvals in April 2018, and necessary formalities are underway.

Pass closure isolates Gurez Valley winter

Due to heavy snowfall in winter, this pass is closed for almost 5 months of the year. So blocking this pass isolates the valley from the rest of the world, leading to a hectic lifestyle in the Gurez Valley during these months.

The Gurez Valley of Kashmir remains a slice of the old world even in our dark times. Its physical isolation has preserved its environmental and cultural treasures. While its modern history has been plagued by war tensions, it may come as a surprise to many that this picturesque valley was once the gateway to the famous Silk Road through Asia. Gurez Valley is today one of the remote regions of Jammu and Kashmir, isolated for almost seven months of the year. It has also kept it pretty much unchanged.

Even today, Gurez does not have a regular supply of electricity. Generator power is only available for a few hours each day. Wi-Fi and Internet are foreign words to most of the people of the Dardic tribe who have never left the valley.

Many from Gurez, particularly those who could afford it, have moved here to Bandipore due to the extremely harsh living conditions there, but they remain distinct. The Partition divided this ancient Dard-Shina civilization geographically, and even their hearts with families and relatives were pushed to both sides of the LoC.

Balancing progress and preservation

The tunnel project promises significant benefits, but raises questions about preserving the character and ecology of the Gurez Valley. The influx of visitors and increased accessibility could pressure the mountain ecosystem and dilute the culture of the Dard-Shina people.

"We welcome development, but it must be sustainable," emphasizes Ghulam Hassan, a local environmental activist. "The charm of Gurez lies in its unspoiled nature and living traditions. Any changes must be carefully managed to preserve its uniqueness."

As plans for the Razdan Pass Tunnel progress, the Gurez Valley stands at a crossroads. The project is a significant step towards integrating this remote region with the rest of Kashmir and India, offering economic development, improved healthcare, and educational opportunities for the local population.

The challenge is to open up the valley while preserving its unique character and natural beauty. As Razdan Pass enters a new era, the hope is that this gateway to Gurez will continue to inspire awe in those who cross it, whether by the road or through the future tunnel.