Arikamedu, ancient Indo-Roman trading port in is in dilapidated state

After swiftly driving through the narrow lanes, some 7 km away from the city of Pondicherry, the extravagant ruins of once an Indo-Roman trading port come into sight i.e. Arikamedu. Not exactly. The sight was huge ruined walls, which seemed like ruins of once a church or a warehouse. Beside these huge broken edifices is an empty well. The site is in a dilapidated state and doesn’t instantly attract you. Although, it was a very significant trading port identified in the Periplus Maris Erythrian/Erythraean. This is an ancient trade route map of the Roman Empire as “Poduke ''. The word ‘Poduke’ is suggested to be a derivation of the Tamil word Potikai, meaning ‘meeting place’.

The current name, ‘Arikamedu’ is a Tamil word for mound of arakan, arakan meaning hero. The statue or figurine was found here as an avatar of Jain Tirthankara Mahavira. Hence, the name. 

History 

Considered a milestone in the history of ancient commercial trading and exploration, the Arikamedu archaeological site links back to the Indo-roman trades. Through the initial excavations in the 1940s, archaeologists suggested it to be a 1st-century trade route. But, later it was established that it dates back to  2nd BCE to 8th century CE. There is some good literature on the prominence of the place, and what Arabs and Romans traded with India back in time. Artefacts such as glassware, beads, terracottas and many more, were discovered. As per UNESCO notes, the site is the earliest known to be an Indo-Pacific bead-making centre.

In the late 18th century, it was a seminary. The seminary became a residence for Jesuit missionaries, who had been driven out from Siam. But, was soon abandoned again.

Timeline of discovery

The trade route was lost for a long time. In the 17th century,  Le Gentil of France mentioned something of this site in his communication with the French king, as per Mysteries Of The Past Archaeological Sites In India by Upinder Singh. However, the excavation began almost 200 years ago,

• 1937 - Re-discovered by French archaeologist, Gabriel Jouveau-Dubreuil 
• 1941 - The first excavation was done by Father L. Faucheux (Missions Étrangères de Pondichéry), Mr R. Surleau (then Director of Public Works Department of Pondicherry), and Dr Ayappan of Madras
• 1944 -48 - Sir Mortimer Wheeler (then director of the Archeological Survey of India) conducted further excavations
• 1947 - 48 - Excavations continued by another French archaeologist Jean-Marie Casal, focusing on habitation quarters
• 1982 - the site came under the control of the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI)
• 1989-92 - most recent and documented excavations by the directors of the mission Indian Archaeology Vimala Begley and K.V. Raman

Sir Mortimer Wheeler is generally attributed to making efforts to retribe information about the port. He discovered that instead of being a town, this would have been a port, with a quay, and warehouse. The structures which I talked about initially were not churches, but warehouses.

Today

The Ariyankuppam River, which ends at the Bay of Bengal, becomes a fishing spot in the lush mangrove forests. This is the exact river on which the port/quay was based. The archaeological site attracts locals, and some dedicated tourists today. The place is not well-kept with over-grown grass reaffirming the lack of conservation and preservation of the ancient maritime link between Greece, and Rome. This is a 2000 year old structure(s). Initially, it was reported that people took bricks from the structure. But, if we talk about the late 20th century and 21st century, the structure was impacted by cyclones and tsunamis. 

Not just the over-grown grass, the plastic bottles, wrappers, and more are a constant sight, like everywhere else in India. The tourists/locals are seen clicking pictures, and making reels with little interest about the significance of the ancient site. On a nearby ground, some kids were playing cricket. The area is secluded and generally quiet with not a lot of people around. Though it's all ruins and rubble now. It is fascinating how it was once an important link between two dynasties. 

Conclusion

As per The Hindu, the government is aiming to establish a digital museum at the site with the help of the French government. Till this comes through, the Arts and Crafts village, an initiative by the Pondicherry government to promote handicrafts by the artisans of the city, is another destination to be added to the list. The boat rides at the Art and Crafts village offer quick sightseeing through the mangrove forest, fishing harbours and the Arikamedu site as well.

If you’re planning to visit Pondicherry and have places such as Cafe de Arts and beaches on your list, Arikamedu is another destination for you to add. 

Quick question: Is Arikamedu the same where a certain segment of Ponniyn Selvan Part 2 is shot? Timestamp 37:11. Watch it on Amazon Prime, and figure it out.

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